A Cozy Corner of Makati: Finding Community in Legazpi Village

Named after the first Spanish governor-general of the Philippines, Legazpi Village has evolved into Makati's premier culinary destination. This neighborhood within the Central Business District stands apart with its tree-lined streets, pocket gardens, and a dining scene that draws food enthusiasts from across Metro Manila. Less crowded than neighboring areas yet still connected to the pulse of the city, Legazpi Village offers the perfect balance between urban energy and neighborhood charm.

In my previous Story, I wrote about the mystery around Dr. Burke, the Burke Building, and the creatives reviving Old Manila over in Escolta. Today, I want to talk about a cozy corner of Makati where I have made my base in Manila, namely, Legazpi Village.

Pre-pandemic 2019, I was introduced to Legazpi Village by an old friend who knew someone selling a 1 bedroom condo in Legazpi Street -- I came and checked it out. It had a 'sea view' with Manila Bay just about faintly visible across the other side of the hazy skyline. It also had a prime view of the very dilapidated GSIS Building -- which apparently has been empty since the late 1990s and no one has seemingly noticed.

If this had been in any other city I probably would not have proceeded with the purchase of that apartment because of the GSIS Building, but for some reason I did. I knew nothing about the building and nothing about the area. I was completely in the hands of my old friend who said it was a good deal -- but sometimes in Manila you've just got to roll with it. I was excited about my new place and the chance to secure a base in this crazy city of 20 million people.

I'm sure that everyone who knows Manila well would agree that you really need to spend a lot of time here to 'get it'. In Manila there is no definable central square. There are no Eiffel Towers or Taj Mahal-type landmarks to see, but the chaos and the energy is something to behold. It was only after anchoring myself to this town that I finally started to understand it. However, to this day there are still many parts of the city that I have never been to -- which is one of the reasons why we started Best In Manila -- to showcase what we know of Manila to everyone else (visitors and locals alike) and also to try and discover much more.

One thing that makes Legazpi Village special is the walkability factor -- now, every Manileño will already know that Manila is not the most walkable of cities in the world -- it is very similar to LA in that regard. But, unlike much of the rest of Manila, Legazpi Village definitely has the walkability factor. This also makes the neighborhood very easy to explore, which I think really helped me to feel at home quickly and it also gives the neighborhood a natural feel of community about it. If only someone could do something about that GSIS building!

By happenstance, around the same time that I moved into Legazpi Village, a cute little coffee shop appeared right across from my building. The Bad Cafe, an independent coffee shop owned by husband and wife team, Brian and Dianne (hence the name) was a welcome addition to Legazpi Street and it's a place where I've spent many a day working remotely (I currently am writing this article from there), reading or just hanging out. I've been friends with Brian and Dianne ever since -- and also with everyone in their team, which is led by head barista Jed, all of whom have made me feel very welcome as well as helping me to advance my tagalog speaking skills, grabbe-sha!

This "Villagey Vibe" is repeated right across the streets of Legazpi - it won't take long before you are on first name terms with everyone from the barbers in Covent barbershop to the baristas in the coffee shops around the area.

The tree-lined streets also help to give a European feel to the neighborhood. One of my favorite streets is Perea, which is on the outer reaches of Legazpi Street -- almost up at Ayala Triangle. It's a bit of a local secret that I can let you in on: it's a beautiful quiet tree-lined street with plenty of shade and a few nice little coffee shops and restaurants including Moai (mentioned in our recent video), Deuces, and Sourdough Cafe.

In fact, Legazpi Village is gradually gaining a reputation as a culinary haven with a steady increase in food and drink offerings over the last few years in the aftermath of the pandemic.

Two Italian-owned Italian restaurants have arrived within the last year. Francesco d'Arrigo, owner of Fresca Trattoria (recent Michelin Guide entrant), brings the flavours of Palermo to Manila in what can be described as a modern Trattoria. The other, La Cardineria, owned by Stefano Tomasiello and his wife Priscilla is Italian food in a Cardineria environment which builds on their hugely successful Siargao restaurant of the same name.

Finer dining options have also arrived into the area in the shape of Halong (also a recent addition to the Michelin Guide) and Tandem. I can recommend each and every one of them - yes, I have tried them all!

There is also a trusty neighborhood gastro-pub called Your Local. A must try.

One of my favorite things about Legazpi Village and Makati in general is how quiet it is on weekends (especially Sundays) and even more so on public holidays, it's like you have the entire place to yourself. Quiet streets and lazy Sundays are a perfect antidote to the busyness of Manila through the week.

For a brief period on Sunday mornings, however, in one corner of Legazpi Village there is the hive of activity that is the Legazpi Sunday Market. It can probably be described as a slightly smaller version of the more well-known Salcedo Saturday market -- you can get lots of fresh fruit and veg here. Local and international food plates, coffee, fresh bread and some plant life are all on offer.

After finishing up there everyone usually grabs brunch in the local coffee shops around the area. Antipodean is a perfectly located place to rest post-Sunday market or to watch others beaver around the market. Within a few hours, it's chill time, everyone retreats for Sunday relaxation.

Another personal favorite for food supplies is Minnano Supermarket, a little Japanese store on Salcedo Street in which you can find all manner of Japanese delights -- including some very upmarket fresh fruit, Onigiri (the Japanese super snack), and much more. There is also a little sake bar underneath.

Another beautiful sight to see around Legazpi Village is a burgeoning group of young and trendy fashionista types. They hang out in the neighborhood on the weekend, trying the coffee shops and taking photos in the streets for that urban look. It really adds a youthful buzz to the place and points to an exciting future indicative perhaps of a growing middle class population that has the benefit of some disposable income. The Philippine economy has been growing steadily since the pandemic, clocking annual growth figures of between 5%-8% since the pandemic. Let's hope it continues to thrive through the present geopolitical strife. I'll be hanging out here come what may, let's hope I don't end up penniless like Señor Legazpi who suffered that fate only 1 year after his arrival in Manila!

Coffee: Bad Cafe, Sulok, Curators & Moai.

Food: Fresca Trattoria, La Cardineria, Halong, Tandem

Drinks: Your Local, Curators

Best Time: Anytime but weekends have a chilled vibe.